It had been 10 years since I had been riding, and the bony old nags I rode in Puerto Vallarta couldn't compare with the horseflesh at Rancho Don Tomas! While I sat on the patio enjoying fresh-ground coffee, Eugenio, our guide, brought out a beautiful gray speckled stallion named Mohoso, meaning "Moldy."

Eugenio had recommended wearing jeans, but it was July, very humid, and I only put on long pants when it's cold and it's never cold in the tropics. Instead, I wore cut-offs, and knowing how saddles can chafe, I laid a large beach towel across the saddle before I mounted. I was assisted all the way by Eugenio's friend, Ricardo, who also came along on the trail ride. He followed up the rear, making sure there weren't any stragglers. Once on, he handed my poodle Sunny up to me, and she, too, got ready for the adventure, as she draped herself across the saddle.

As we passed through the little ranchito of Don Tomas, I saw a version of Mexican ranch life that hasn't changed much in a hundred years. Pigs and chickens held in by hand-hewn fences, goats drinking out of a hollowed-out log used as a trough, and houses made of sticks. Laundry draped over a barbed-wire fence to dry. Kids squatting in the dirt playing marbles, while their mothers busied themselves with household chores without the aid of kitchen appliances. Anyone out there remember washing clothes on a washboard? Very few, I'll bet.

The school was closed because it was Sunday. It was cement structure, painted a bright salmon color, and had a hand-painted mural of a mother and her children on the side. Many Don Tomas residents were in the small, blue-doored church attending mass, but it was obvious others had farm-type chores to do.

The road narrowed as we neared the jungle, and we stopped occasionally while Eugenio opened a gate, to let us pass through. Ricardo followed patiently behind, closing each gate, so as not to let the livestock out. Deeper into the jungle we went, and Eugenio pointed out lime, mango, banana, and papaya trees.

He told us the story about the "hot lips" tree, a common shrub of upland forests with white flowers associated with two prominent red, fleshy "lips," hence the name. The beans from this tree can be roasted and made into a special type of coffee. Another tree, the "tourist tree," has red, peeling bark, much like a vacationer who has been in the sun too long. We saw mountain cottons, with hibiscus-sized yellow flowers, several species of palms, and the magnificent Royal Poinciana, known locally as tabachinnes, with its red-orange flowers.

Of particular interest was the Ceiba Tree of Life, famous tree of the Mayans, but more commonly known as the kapok tree. In the '50s, the cotton-like material in this tree's seed pod was used to fill cushions and pillows in the U.S. Now, of course, synthetic fill materials are used.

To the Mayans, this very straight light, gray-barked tree symbolized the heavens, as well as the underworld. Its huge, buttressed roots provide shelter for bats, symbol of the underworld, then its "middle ground," or the radiating branches symbolize life on earth. Its unique flat-topped crown forms a canopy, and represents the heavens.

This tree is the habitat for many interesting creatures. I saw an owl high up in its branches, but the canopy is also the home of harpy eagles and monkeys. Many kapok trees have termite nests that are frequented by anteaters. Eugenio explained that parrots make their home in termite nests so that when the babies hatch, they have plenty of food right at their door. As we continued riding, we saw several parrots flying overhead, and the tops of the trees were filled with several species of bromeliads (air ferns).

We crossed creeks and small streams lined with gigantic "elephant ears" and huge-leafed philodendron. Ferns and flowering ground cover grew around small waterfalls. Strangler vines encircled trees, and hung down, swinging in the light breeze. I looked around for Tarzan. Instead, I saw martins, hummingbirds, kingfishers, woodpeckers, woodcreepers, finches, flycatchers, jays, thrushes, blackbirds, and caciques. I wished I'd thought to bring binoculars and my Peterson Field Guide of Mexican birds. I heard the calls of pheasant, dove, and quail. The sounds of the forest, and the soft, plodding of the horses' hooves were a natural tranquilizer.

After about an hour and a half, we reached the Marabasco River, the border between the states of Jalisco and Colima. It was time for a refreshing swim, fresh lemonade, and a short nap. Eugenio pointed out several species of water birds, and we took a little hike down river to a natural swimming pool fed by a small waterfall. Butterflies of all colors and sizes dotted the landscape, while small lizards scampered to safer ground, away from the human invaders. A lone black iguana sunned himself on a warm rock overlooking the river. Sunny half-heartedly chased a sandpiper, then decided to take a swim instead.

On the return trip, we met one of the local ranchers, who was busy strapping a wayward calf across the back of a burro. He explained that the little guy was blind, and had gotten lost. A burro ride would make his return trip a little easier and faster.

As the trail widened once again, and we got closer to the ranchito, we were lucky enough to witness a cattle drive. More than 50 head of Brahmin/Hereford-mixed cattle blocked our path, and we had to wait until Eugenio's ranch dog, a shepherd/collie mix, took charge. He quickly, and with a lot of gusto (and doggy pleasure) got the cattle moving and out of our way. Sunny watched from the saddle, feigning disinterest.

Once back at the ranch, we said goodbye to our trusty steeds, and Ricardo led them back to the stables to be groomed and fed. We were hungry by this time, too, and bought a cold cerveza (beer) that went incredibly well with the piping hot quesadillas, made with homemade corn tortillas. It was interesting to watch the cocinera (cook) put the tortilla dough into a hand press, and quickly produce this popular Mexican treat.

Finally it was time to go. We'd spent 6 hours enjoying a remote, untouched corner of Colima. Even my photographs will never show the majestic beauty of its jungles, valleys, mountains, rivers and wildlife. It was sad to leave a part of Mexico that most tourists never see, but now, thanks to Eugenio's love of horses and nature, this adventure is possible for everyone. To make reservations or for more information, check out Hacienda Don Tomas' web page, call (333) 42744 or e-mail

Susan Dearing has written a 150-page tourist guide featuring activities in and around Manzanillo. For more information on the area, be sure to purchase, "Manzanillo and the state of Colima, Facts, Tips and Day Trips." Click here for more information.